Upgrading 5 classic casual shoes
“They don’t make ‘em like they used to” can be applied to several classic menswear footwear staples. While the silhouette, design and brand name remains the same, the quality leaves something to be desired.
This is often a result of the brand or company being sold, manufacturing shifted to countries with cheaper labor and less expensive materials used to make what only looks like the original product.
But you don’t have to settle for cheap! If you can get past needing to wear the brand name and if you’re willing to spend a bit more money, then you can still get well-made shoes from other sources.
Here’s a list of classic casual footwear, and where I’d recommend buying their alternatives.
Clarks Desert Boot ($130) — Admittedly, this is probably the one in least need of an upgrade. My only gripe is the lack of arch support in shoe and the fact it’s unlined. There a lot of options for chukka boots out there, but for an upgrade to the crepe sole original, go with the Astorflex Greenflex ($135) boot instead. They’re made in Italy and fully lined. If you want a slightly higher cut chukka boot and an unlined interior try the Driftflex ($120) model instead.
Bass Weejun ($95) — I’m on the record for loving loafers, but the Bass Weejun of today could be a lot better as they typically use polished leathers instead of full grain (that’s just for starters). For an upgrade of the classic beefroll penny loafer, I would recommend Rancourt & Co. ($295-$330) or Oak Street Bootmakers ($328-$342). Both made in the USA and both are recraftable for a resole when they wear out.
Clarks Wallabee ($150) — These boots seem to be very polarizing. Either you love the look or you think they look ridiculous. I bought both to compare them side-by-side and the Clarks model pales in comparison to the Padmore & Barnes P404 boot. The lack of a leather liner makes a huge difference. The leather isn’t as nice and the build quality isn’t as high — right down to the stitching. The P404 can be had for around $150. And when you learn that Padmore & Barnes was once the original manufacturer of the Wallabee style, it makes sense to go with the original.
Sperry Top-Sider Boat Shoe ($95-$160) — You could probably throw these in alongside Sebago Dockside boat shoes as well. Despite their east-coast preppy heritage, they don’t hold a candle to the truly “Made in Maine” counterparts from Quoddy ($275), Rancourt & Co. ($250), and Oak Street Bootmarkers ($282). Get a higher quality leather, even if you’re going to soak them in seawater and beer.
L.L. Bean Blucher Moc ($99) — These shoes also join the boat shoe in the “Official Preppy Handbook”, but as long-time aficionados of L.L. Bean know, these aren’t the same quality as decades before. You can pick up a premium pair from Oak Street Bootmakers ($282), Quoddy ($295) and Rancourt & Co. ($250).
Bonus: L.L. Bean Duck Boot — No need to buy this classic anywhere else. Still made in Maine and still a great deal. Probably the best deal in footwear you can find.