Joe Biden’s pocket squares and the coming end of presidential neckties

Several years ago, I wrote a post at Put This On about the last presidential pocket square, worn by Ronald Reagan. Since the end of The Gipper’s term in office, the pocket square has vanished from the breast pocket of American presidents. 

But in recent months I observed it returned, tips pointed up, on the Joe Biden campaign trail. Peaking from the pocket, I wonder what prompted its return — first seen the night of March 10th, capping his victories and right before the coronavirus pandemic took off. He seemed to wear it off and on during the Obama presidency and he didn’t wear it during the early days of primary campaign, either. Yet, it sits there, perhaps months away from taking office behind the Resolute Desk. 

The clothing choices of politicians and those who work under them are more about communicating subtle clues rather than fashion statements. There’s a reason Obama’s tan suit made waves, yet you heard nothing about his greys and blues. The suit still is the male uniform that’s accepted in the halls of power. As society shifts, so does the uniform — gradually. 

Each president does bring their own style to the office. George W. Bush liked to wear a tip set belt with his Oxxford suits and cowboy boots with his tuxedo, for instance, as a nod to his Texas roots and it played the role of projecting a persona of ruggedness. 

So, what does bringing back a pocket square tell us about the message Joe Biden is trying to communicate? 

To read the tea leaves, I believe it’s about a “return to normal” after four years under the current administration. It’s a nod back to the time of presidents past. This isn’t the crazy-uncle Joe Biden image made popular by The Onion. It’s about old traditions. It’s about getting older voters to recall the idea that the office of the presidency deserves respect. 

I believe it’s also about drawing contrasts. Biden later in the primary campaign sought to position himself as a seasoned and steady hand who could not just win the nomination, but also guide the country back on track. In a campaign where youthful energy was being contrasted to his age, I think it was a signal to the more reliable base of older voters. 

But should the pocket square make a return to the Oval Office, I believe it’ll be the last dance. We’ve already had a fairly high profile candidate make his debate debut without a necktie. The culture is shifting, and once an item disappears from a politician’s wardrobe, it’s a signal that it’s likely to disappear from society as well. 

After record unemployment, working from home, and the rise of a new generation more fixated on streetwear than tailoring, I’m pretty sure we’re in the last days of the presidential necktie as well.

As someone who loves neckties, even I have to admit that I don’t wear one as often — and I wear suits for work! But talking with clients, even those who wear tailored clothing to the office admit they never wear a necktie — it’s reserved for court and weddings only. As much as we like to profess individuality in this nation, we loathe to stand out too much in fear of ridicule of being too stuffy.

In time, I think the necktie will look to us much like something that’s just simply not worn, but we have photos to remember a time when our leaders did. Presidents already no longer wear top hats. Or morning dress. They barely wear white tie tails once a year. In my lifetime, I fully expect to witness a president take the oath of office without a necktie